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If you seriously enjoy RP more than PVP, you'll absolutely love the Grimmwold branch.
Anyway, I like UO because for some reason it's the only game I can RP in. The combination of the isometric view and the way the physical game world is both rigid and changeable at the same time makes it simple to know what everyone is saying and to physically show what your character is doing.
The only complaints I have about UO are design choices about the way they made the engine way back that limit the game code- mainly the way ships are handled and people are moved around when they are not physically walking (being the only case in which players are not abruptly redrawn but tweened between tiles).
Oh, I also hate that EA bought it out.
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